Milia Explained
What Are Milia and Why Do They Form?
Milia are tiny, white, pearl-like bumps that appear on the skin. They do not cause harm, discomfort, or damage the skin, yet these bumps can be bothersome due to their noticeable appearance. Some will fade naturally, but persistent ones often need extraction. Today, we are talking about these white bumps: what they are, how to prevent them, how to remove them, and where they start. Let’s dig in!
How Milia Form
Milia are small, white bumps that form on the skin caused by a buildup underneath the skin’s surface of keratin, a protein that protects skin cells. The keratin becomes trapped under the skin, forming a visible white bump. They are common in newborns and disappear a month or two after birth. However, in adults, they can linger and may require treatment.
Why Do You Get Milia?
Several factors cause this development. Here are a few of the most common causes:
- Lack of cell turnover: Dead skin cells and keratin get trapped under the skin, forming bumps.
- Harsh skincare products: Overuse of products can contribute to triggering the skin, like tretinoin, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), oil-based cleansers, or heavy moisturizers.
- Sun damage: Too much sun exposure thickens the skin, making it harder for cells to shed naturally.
- Medications: Taking certain medications, such as steroids, can thin the skin and disrupt natural exfoliation.
- Aging: Cell turnover slows down as we age, which increases our chance of developing this skin issue.
Where Does This Come From?
Milia is widely misunderstood. Researchers believe that milia form from the vellus hairs, mix with keratin, and remain trapped in the oil gland. According to PubMed, “Milia may originate from the outermost cells of the hair bulge of the outer root sheath. Further studies concerning keratin and filaggrin expression in milia are necessary to confirm this hypothesis.”
What Does Milia Look Like?
Milia look like small, white, pearl-like bumps on the face. They typically cluster around the eyes, forehead, and near the mouth and chin. They tend to be hard but are painless and harmless. Often, they are thought of in comparison to acne; however, they are not red in color, tender to the touch, or inflamed.
Who Gets Milia?
Milia can appear at any age. Yet, it is most common in newborns, but it goes away naturally. Milia found in adults is most common as we age because cell turnover slows down.
Will this go Away Naturally?
Sometimes they can disappear on their own, but in most cases, professional extraction is needed for safe removal. At-home attempts can cause scarring or skin damage, so it’s best to trust an experienced esthetician. We recommend scheduling a deep cleaning facial with an esthetician or skincare professional who has experience in milia removal. If you have it persistently, adjusting your skincare routine can help:
🔹Use a cream-based cleanser instead of harsh gels
🔹Exfoliate 2-3 times a week with a gentle exfoliant
🔹Add Retinol to your skincare routine to encourage cell turnover (however, we suggest easing into retinol, which you can click here to read how to do that)
🔹Incorporate Hyaluronic Acid into your routine twice a day to increase hydration
🔹Hydrate your skin with a moisturizer that is heavy enough but not pore-clogging
🔹Always wear sunscreen!
How to Remove
Never attempt to remove milia on your own! You will cause scarring. It forms inside the oil gland in the base of the hair follicle and needs to be fully extracted. An esthetician or skincare professional with experience extracting milia can help you. An esthetician or dermatologist can:
Perform manual extractions with precision tools
Offer advanced treatments such as laser therapy if necessary; however, these are usually for more aggressive removal.
At Skin Deep Esthetics, we specialize in safe milia extraction using proven techniques that leave your skin smoother, clearer, and healthier.
Milia vs. Whiteheads
Many confuse the two, and it’s no wonder, because they are similar. Milia is a hard, white bump on the skin. Whiteheads are soft and smaller in size and can be caused by a lack of cell turnover. Another common cause is trapped oil from harsh skincare products, such as salicylic acid or alpha-hydroxy acids. When extracted, whiteheads contain trapped oil, and milia release a tiny pearl-like substance. Whiteheads appear around clogged pores and can be common in those with blackheads. Milia can appear on anyone and tend to cluster around the eye, mouth, or chin areas. Whiteheads may appear tender to the touch and can develop into acne. Milia are hard bumps that may eventually disappear on their own or remain the same.
Now is the Time to Take Control of Your Skin
If you have been frustrated with your milia and are looking for someone to help, we would love the opportunity to help you get rid of it and start you on a healthy skin journey. Our deep cleaning facial focuses on extractions and deep cleaning your pores. Please visit our website to book your first appointment today! Any questions? Drop them in the comments below.