Peptides
Peptides: The Ingredient Changing Aging in Skincare
Peptides have become one of the most talked-about ingredients of the year, for two years in a row, and for good reasons. These powerful ingredients are essential for a strong and youthful appearance. If you haven’t incorporated this ingredient into your skincare routine, now is the time! Today we will cover everything you need to know about peptides, including why you need them, how to use them, which ones we recommend, and why they’re a great alternative to Botox. Let’s dig in!
What Are Peptides?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as the building blocks for the proteins in our cells, such as collagen, elastin, and keratin. They are essential for maintaining a firm, plump, and healthy complexion. There are two types of amino acids: essential and non-essential. Our body naturally produces non-essential amino acids. Essential amino acids are not produced by our body but are needed. We must find them from external sources, such as eating protein or applying peptides to our skin. As we age, our natural production of these building blocks declines, which is why topical peptides become increasingly important for aging skin.
How Do Peptides Work?
Peptides act as messengers that signal the cells to perform a specific function. Amino acids are small molecules that easily bind to cell receptors. Their goal is to strengthen collagen and elastin, which break down as we age. As collagen and elastin break down, our skin shows signs of aging, such as wrinkles or sagging skin, due to a loss of elasticity. PubMed says, “The amino acid sequence of a cosmetic peptide plays a crucial role in determining its effects on the skin. Each amino acid in a peptide sequence contributes to the shape and charge of the molecule, therefore determining how the peptide interacts with the receptors and enzymes and how it diffuses through the lipid layer.”
What do Peptides Do For Your Skin?
Peptides are known for their ability to smooth wrinkles and tighten sagging skin. They stimulate fibroblast cells which are responsible for collagen synthesis. However, they are derived from amino acids and each amino acid has its own unique property. For example: there are peptides for signaling, relaxing the facial muscles, skin repair, and to prevent collagen breakdown.
Peptides alone can’t fix your skin. This is where internal support can help. If you’re eating sugar and carbs, you’re creating a process called glycation, which we’ve talked about in previous blogs and on our podcast. Glycation happens when sugar attaches to protein and breaks them down, which speeds up the aging process.
To get the most benefits topically, you need to support your body on the inside. Eliminating sugar and carbs is key. Increase protein in the form of animal protein and fat in the form of butter or beef tallow. More studies are being done on the benefits of eating fatty red meat over plant-based food. Science Direct states, “Plant-based proteins are often considered incomplete sources of protein because they typically lack one or more Essential Amino Acids (EAAs). In contrast, a complete protein contains all the EAAs in sufficient amounts and is usually derived from animal-based sources.”
Are Peptides Good For Your Skin Barrier?
Peptides restore a damaged skin barrier. If your skin barrier has been compromised, or if you have dry, dehydrated, or sensitive, peptides will help. They aid in wound healing and are great for post-treatment recovery such as after peels, dermaplaning, or microneedling treatments.
What are the Potential Side Effects?
Peptides are generally safe for use and can be used on all skin types. The bigger concern with them is their ability to penetrate the skin barrier. Our skin is a detox organ and unless our skin barrier is compromised, the skin allows very little in. This ingredient with a large molecular weight do not penetrate well. If they are not properly formulated, they sit on the skin, which has no benefits, and can potentially cause skin concerns, like sensitive skin, irritation, acne, or flareups. PubMed says, “Their molecular size and structure influence their ability to penetrate the skin barrier and reach the intended target site. Environmental factors, such as pH, temperature, and interactions with other ingredients in the formulation, can also impact their stability and functionality.”
Which Peptide is Better Than Botox?
If you’re looking for a natural way to smooth wrinkles and smooth fine lines, this is a great alternative to Botox. Peptides, such as Argireline or Copper Tripeptides, have been proven to relax facial muscles and soften expression lines like botox. Using them is a great alternative to someone who is avoiding injections.
Which is Better: Peptides or Retinol?
Neither ingredient is better because both have completely different functions in how they interact with the skin. Retinol works by increasing cell turnover which can leave the skin feeling red, dry, or irritated if used incorrectly. Peptides work by stimulating the collagen and elastin in the skin. Both ingredients work on fibroblast cells to keep the collagen strong, however retinol works at the surface level and peptides work at the dermal level. As stated above, peptides must be encapsulated or used with advanced skin treatments in order for them to be effective. Let’s break these ingredients down:
Retinol: Vitamin A derivative which increases cell turnover and forces collagen production. There are side effects associated with retinol use.
– Converts to retinoic acid in skin
– Binds to nuclear retinoic acid receptors
– Accelerates keratinocyte turnover
– Directly stimulates collagen gene expression
– Inhibits collagenase (collagen-degrading enzymes)
Peptides: amino acids that signal the cells and increase collagen and elastin production. Safe to use on all skin types.
– Mimic fragments of collagen breakdown products
– Trigger fibroblast collagen synthesis response
– Some varieties inhibit muscle contraction (expression lines)
– Others deliver copper ions for enzyme activation
XJ Beauty states, “Peptides can help mitigate retinol irritation. Focus on barrier-supporting peptides to counteract retinol dryness.” We recommend using a peptide serum in the morning and retinol at night. When starting with retinol, we recommend using 2-3 times a week and increasing it by one night every 3-4 weeks to help your skin adjust. In between retinol nights, we recommend peptides.
What Should you Not Mix with Peptides?
They are generally safe to use with most active ingredients. However, adding this in because it’s the ingredient to use is also not ideal. If you are looking for anti-aging and are not doing much to your skin, they are a great place to start. If you already have multiple serums and steps in your routine, adding in a peptide is overkill and you should work to simplify your routine before adding another product in.
Ready to get started?
If you want to get started with peptides, please visit our online store to shop for our recommended products. If you aren’t sure where to start, you can schedule an appointment online or connect with us via Instagram and we can help create a custom skincare routine for you.
